After many years on the fringes of the Cape wine world I am still constantly surprised and delighted by new discoveries.
Most recent of these was one of the Cape’s newer wineries, Gabrielskloof near Botrivier. Established as recently as 2002, the farm produced its first bottling in 2007.
What makes this all the more remarkable is the fact that Gabrielskloof was created from scratch.
Former coal mining businessman Bernhard Heyns left Middelburg in Mpumalanga and looked for a piece of land where he could establish a brand new wine farm. All there was on the property he chose, seven kilometres from Botrivier, was stony fallow wheatlands and a great deal of dust.
Today it stands out like an emerald jewel of vineyards and olive groves that appears almost shockingly out of place in its arid surroundings.
But in the few short years of its existence, Gabrielskloof has become the centre of social life in the Botrivier area. Apart from the wine cellar and olive press, there’s a relaxed, informal restaurant and deli, where local farmers drop in for coffee or a meal, children play on the safe lawns, and wine lovers stop for a serious tasting of the cellar’s excellent products.
The restaurant has become a sought-after venue for business lunches and tour groups.
No expense has been spared to create an efficient and ultra-modern wine cellar where winemaker Kobie Viljoen produces truly superb wines.
His Syrah and Five Arches Bordeaux blend rated four and four-and a half stars in the latest issue of the Platter Guide. The Gabrielskloof standard red blend, labelled simply The Blend, is a deliciously creamy wine that’s easy-drinking and fruity, with the potential of a few years’ maturation.
On the white side is a blend of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc called Magdalena, lovely and fresh, with crisp green fruit notes.
When you think you’ve seen all the shady oak lanes and old Cape Dutch gables to last you a lifetime, take time to travel out into the wheatlands.
Gabrielskloof is just 100km from Cape Town – an hour’s drive on a good scenic road. It’s certainly worth the drive.
Visit their website for details.

Photograph: Gabrielskloof

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I’m always cheered by a visit to Vergelegen Estate in Somerset West.
While other wine estates are struggling to survive in today’s tough economic climate, Vergelegen just keeps growing and adding value and charm to the historic property.
The recession doesn’t seem to have touched this magnificent estate.
Of course, owners Anglo American can probably afford it, but they seem to go “above and beyond” the call of duty here.
Ordinary mortals may speak longingly about bio-diversity and the importance of preserving our historical and natural heritage, but these things cost money.
In the 25 years that Anglo have owned the estate they’ve painstakingly restored the manor house, developed the 17 gardens on the grounds, catalogued the collection of rare books in the library and created one of the most imaginative wine cellars in the world.
Hundreds of hectares of alien vegetation have been cleared, a herd of endangered bontebok has been established and is growing steadily and the management of the farm’s fruit orchards has been handed over to farm workers to run for their own profit.
The most recent development has been the building and establishment of the Stables Restaurant on the site of what was once, in fact, the farm stables.
Vergelegen is one of the country’s most precious historic sites and it’s no surprise to discover that celebrity guests from all over the world have been entertained here.
Vergelegen was the venue for the first ANC meeting after the release of Nelson Mandela from prison.
It has played host Queen Elizabeth II, President Clinton, Bishop Tutu, the Prince of Wales and Duchess of Cornwall, to name just a few.
But the real joy of visiting Vergelegen is the fact that it’s not been allowed to become a static museum. It’s a people-friendly place, where children can play on the endless rolling lawns, families can picnic under the camphor trees and take long, leisurely walks through forest and fynbos.
The farm’s managing director, Don Tooth, says he recently found a small child swimming happily in one of the fish ponds outside the Stables. Instead of being indignant he was delighted. Vergelegen was making a small child happy on a hot sunny day.
The architecture of the Stables Restaurant is an interesting extension of the farm’s Cape Dutch style. Undeniably modern in design, it repeats the thatched roof and rough-hewn timber beams of other farm buildings and fits in comfortably with its neighbours. A wide glass wall offers a stunning view across the gardens to the mountain beyond. When the restaurant was built they decided a row of tall trees blocked some of the mountain view, so out they came. Things get done fast on Vergelegen.
And of course, one of the reasons many people go there is to enjoy the great wines that are produced under the watchful eye of maverick winemaker Andre van Rensburg.
Vergelegen wines all score four stars or more in the Platter Guide, year after year.
Taste their most recent red blend called DNA. It’s a big, bold wine with a nice peppery bite and enough structure to ensure a long and elegant life.
But whatever your reasons for visiting Vergelegan, take time to explore. You could stroll through the gardens and forests for a whole day and still have seen only a part of them.
And if you have foreign visitors, take them there. It’s one of the country’s great showpieces.

Photograph: Vergelegen

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Photograph: Burn Stewart Distillers

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One of the questions I’m often asked by readers goes something like this: “I have a bottle of 1975 Cabernet that belonged to my father, who died recently. I don’t drink wine myself, but I think this may be worth a lot of money. How much do you think I could get for it?”
Unfortunately it’s a question that has no definite answer. The value of an old wine depends almost entirely on the way it’s been stored for all those years. And even if it’s been kept under ideal conditions, a prospective buyer would need proof of that.
Your rare old wine could be wonderful. Or it could be undrinkable, poor quality vinegar. What buyer will gamble a lot of money on that?
My advice is always: “Invite a wine-loving friend round to share the bottle with you, but keep a younger bottle as a stand-by in case the old one stinks.”
Friends who emigrated to America some years ago came back to the Cape to clear out a garage of stuff they’d left behind. Among the boxes of old pairs of shoes, LP records, linen, books, crockery, kitchen utensils and other stuff they unearthed several cases of old wine. After a couple of decades in a damp Sea Point garage most of the bottles had lost their labels – or part of their labels. We jig-saw-puzzled some of them together.
“What should we do with them?” I was asked.
“Let’s drink them,” I responded rapidly , and we have started doing just that.
The first session proved a huge delight.
A bottle of Bertrams 1982 Shiraz (Superior) was first on our list.
The cork was still reasonably sound and sweet and the colour was remarkably bright – ruby with a garnet rim. All sorts of good aromas greeted us when we sniffed the glass – spices, fynbos herbs, blackberries.
The wine is elegantly smooth, still with a nice flick of acidity, some crisp cranberry notes, very much alive and well.
The finish is long and slightly savoury.
It’s a real treasure and I’m pleased there are still several bottle left. They’ll be opened for special occasions.
Next on our tasting list was a bottle of Simonsvlei Ko-op Wynkelder 1984 Cabernet Sauvignon.
This had not fared quite as well as the Bertrams, but was certainly still drinkable.
Its garnet colour was heading towards a rusty brick red and the nose was led by a slight suggestion of oxidation, savoury rather than fruity.
Still, it was quite frisky, with some warm plum-pudding notes and flavours of carpaccio, cloves and allspice.
The finish was rather short and the wine did fade quite quickly in the glass.
Interesting, I’d say, rather than delicious.
As with so many old wines, these both tended to die quite soon after being poured. The lesson here is not to open them too far ahead of pouring.
Sometimes very young wines benefit from a bit of time in the glass, but older wines – like some of us older tasters – don’t like to be kept waiting too long.

Photograph:bionicbong

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